Discussion in 'Knives, Gear, Guns And Other Tools' started by ManOfSteel, Feb 15, 2018.
We still need a pic of the front yard...
and I think you can take the recoil pad off the Tikka and fill the hollow stock with some lead shot and seal it up with some foam insulation to add a little weight.
What's wrong with being a gorilla?
Would you rather be a sheep? If so you better not hang around with @Zeek or @Flex
That’s true. I was laying on my back with my dog on the floor earlier and they were trying to guess how many hands I am from the floor to the top of my chest.
Don't pass out you may wake up saddled and mounted
I’m assuming my POI shift is because I zeroed a few days ago when it was a cool 60 and today it’s high 80s. But this is my best group to date.
Nice little clover there @Bcamos
Someone’s getting addicted to chasing sub MOA (and I don’t even know what that means!)
So your POI shift isn’t a ton but it’s not from the temp change. Temperature generally speaking isn’t going to play that big of a difference certainly not at 100 yards. Ammo temp would play a larger shift potentially but again not that much at 100 and the hotter it gets the faster it’s going to shoot and the increased muzzle velocity would generally cause your POI to go up. But st 100 yards we are talking about a very tiny amount. Not sure what ammo your running but I know MOS was shooting 168 gr FGMM. This is a ballistic run showing a 20* shift in temp assuming all else stayed the same with a 100yards zero on the rifle.
Was this the first group you shot for the day? Or first group after a break? Did the rifle print a little low all day?
Just as an example this is 308 federal gold medal match out to 1000 yards running at 2650 FPs at the muzzle. A 20* shift from 60* up to 80* does have an impact and one that could cause a miss just on its own as it is going to reduce the drop by about 13” at 1K yards
The table is cut off but the categories are Drop in inches, drop in MOA. Wind (set at 10mph from the left) wind in MOA.
The time is time of flight of the bullet
Cool thing is sound travels at about 1100fps (depending on atmospheric conditions) so it takes bit over 2 seconds to hear the bullet impact. And it took almost 2 seconds for it to get there. So you shoot,watch, wait, see impact , wait, hear impact
So now the rifle is shooting dead nuts you found ammo it like and it’s good available repeatable ammo. There may be some fine tuning to your zero needed.
Keep checking your natural point of aim
Now the hard part...stop shooting groups. Shooting groups is good to test equipment, verify results after changes, win bets with friends. But it’s like the guy at the gym who has a great physique but would get tossed like a rag doll by some farmer who knows how to apply it.
Start shooting some dot drills. Then work to see how fast you can do it and push your distance
A little, even thought I said I wouldn't. That group was between .19" and .25" I've measured it a few times and I keep coming up with numbers between there. It's really hard to measure it when its that small.
I'm impressed with my rifle because it's not supposed to shoot this good. It's a budget R700 with one of the most hated stocks for precision shooting (it's called the flexy flyer because it moves so much under recoil lol). But I'm super impressed with Kyle's Tikka because EVERYTHING I've read says that the first 50-100 rounds out of a gun aren't going to group well. Everything I've read says that a brand new gun is supposed to be a little inconsistent before finally breaking in and tightening up. But Kyle's gun was shooting sub MOA right out of the box with the factory grease still in it lol. With some practice and more break in, I can't wait to see what he starts pumping out with that thing.
Yeah we saw this shooting out to 550 the other day. The person behind the spotting scope called the hit before anyone else because we couldn't see the target and we were hearing it way after the bullet got there. It's a really cool thing to experience. I first experienced it while watching tanks at the range. Standing only 100yds away, you'd see the cloud of sand burst off the entire body of the tank and the barrel recoil, then about half a second later a massive BOOM.
This is one of the many reasons why with modern produced rifles the need for a break in is bunk! What you may see as the barrel begins to foul is a POI shift and this could be a factor in your POI shift. At some point once the barrel has fouled it will settle down and run consistent for “x” number of rounds. Every barrel is different. When it starts moving around or throwing rounds that will be the time to clean.
This is a big reason for keep a round count log so you can start to see patterns. You will know ever “number of rounds” in need to clean
Then foul up the barrel and run another “x rounds”
Yeah I need to get a notebook for all of this. Any recommendations? Or can I just keep a basic log in a ruled notebook?
Thank you for this. I read the blog post that went along with the image. It all makes good sense and I plan on starting on some stuff like this.
I'm debating on if I should be keeping the Burris or selling it for something like a fixed SWFA. I'm starting ti see that whether I'm shooting 100 yds, 250yds or 550yds I keep it at 14x anyway. The better glass and features of the SWFA might make more sense for now.
I use impact data books. Might be useful for you as well.
Impact makes a good book.
Honestly a notebook is a notebook
Big things to track is total round count. This is good for learning about your barrel, when it wants to be cleaned.
Atmospherics. Temp, humidity, altitude, barometric pressure and WIND remember wind trumps all!!
If you have a solid zero, and you know the atmospherics for that zero then their are charts to make adjustments. But the best results are drone your DOPE and that’s what the journal is for. So your zeroed at 100 at your current atmospherics. Then you go out to say 500yards. And it’s say 12MOA adjustment.
Then two weeks later your back same 500 yards but your 11.5MOA. Everything is the same but it’s 20* warmer and humidity is a bit higher. Now you have solid data for the next time. You come out it’s the same 20* above your zero temp this time you dial 11.5moa on your cold bore shot and it’s a hit.
BCAMOS I think what you discovered with your scope is magnification is overrated. And like any lense the upper and lower range of magnification is not as good as the middle. And the edges of the lense aren’t as good as the middle. And you pay huge buck for a scope or a camera lense where that’s less true. Still doesn’t go away it’s just less pronounced.
If you were to get an SWFA just get the 10x. If you have the cash get the 10x hd. Don’t bother with the 16x or 20x. But if your making hits with your Burris (Burris makes a nice scope) stick with it and instead buy more ammo. But you make quickly come to realize how nice it is to have a scope in MIl/MIl with matching reticle
Ordering the KRG Bravo Chassis for the 700
Now that's a nice group!