Winter Overlanding Overnighter Disaster

Nexxtime feed the boy some of these

Everyone loves a blue waffle..

 

Until they Google it.

 

I would probably switch to 0w30 for winter at least. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-0w-30

Have you tried blocking the radiator to get the engine to operating range?

 

New ESEE TRUCK, I like it

 

radiator is blocked with a big folded canvas tarp.

i run 0W40 Delvac synthetic - due to the engine being a commercial truck engine (in Italy they run these engines in 5 ton trucks)

temp issue is unique to these engine blocks, the thermostat is self contained in a housing, and cannot be changed out for a hotter stat. This was to meet US/CAD emissions specs . It’s too low a temp stat . The only option for a hotter stat is to buy TurboDieselFreaks (LostJeeps) custom machined housing , which allows the use of a 195 deg stat, one that is easily replaced unlike the factory housing / stat combo. But it’s also $1000

also these engines were NEVER meant to have emissions equipment (egr/egr cooler/ low temp star) mounted on them . That’s why nearly 100% of the 2005 inline 4 diesel engines failed after 25,000 KM’s due to severe soot /sludge issues that caused the valve train to literally fall apart

trust me I know - it happened to the previous owner and it happened to me. Close to $8000 for the cylinder head, valve train parts, and $3500 labour .

In summer I run 15W40 , sometimes up to 50 weight if I’m in the desert regions of BC and I’m crawling up hundreds of KM’s of mountain FSR’s in 40 - 50 deg C heat

I could run 0w30 in winter but it’s not recommended by the engine mfg . 0W40 is still zero weight until the engine gets warm .

 

I know about those vm engines in those jeeps. I was the head tech at the local Jeep dealer, after 5 years I ran away.

Those engines had 5w30 specced in some markets. The 0w30 has a 10 degree lower pour point and running below temp will put the viscosity close to a 40 at normal temp. The oil I linked should be the esp which is rated for European diesels. I think it would be worth the trade off for easier starting in those conditions.

 

Actually, what I learned from this report is to buy a Subaru if I ever decided to venture north.

 

my 100% stock 21 forester w/original battery was sluggish to start at -15F (-26c), but did it every time during our cold snap earlier this month.

 

maybe I’ll giver a try although it’s warming up above zero C here now.

 

It's 11°c in my hood right now

 

$700 CAD (multiple taxes, hazmat shipping included)

big ol Group 65 Odyssey Extreme truck battery heading my way . 1750 hot cranking amps, 980 CCA . AGM construction , 75 pounds of engine starting goodness.

Every ambulance , fire truck , police cars , SAR trucks in BC run these heavy duty batteries.

Should be here Wednesday



Buying another one next month. Along with a 300 amp alternator, 0/1 gauge pure copper welding cables and copper terminals, industrial adhesive 5:1 heat shrink, plus battery switch / isolator

 

I'd put that in my new Subaru for the stereo.

 

I know some folks with the Odyssey batteries in Xterras have to add diodes to the voltage sense line to increase the charging voltage to keep them healthy as AGM batteries don't have the same cell voltage that a flooded battery does and it seems the Odyssey are more sensitive to that than other brands seem to be.

I've had an Autocraft Platinum AGM in my Xterra for several years now but I let my NOCO Genius 10 do a full optimization charge during every oil change to keep it healthy. I'm not sure if that would work the same for the Odyssey as well.

 

I’m a little worried about that too, but I do have a NOCO 5 amp AGM battery charger I can install under the hood and plug in every few weeks when parked.

I reached out to the alternator maker and inquired about that diode issue. They are willing to work with me and tweak their build . I should know more in a few weeks