Thought about putting this in the leather working thread but it's pretty pic intensive and I don't want to put people off from going through that. This is how I did a sheath for a Carothers Performance Knives Field Knife. Superb knife, second sheath I've done for one. Props as always to Paul Long's wonderful DVD's and helpful comments and pointers on the Sheaths subforum, Chuck Burrows Custom Knife Sheaths DVD, Dwayne Puckett aka leatherman of Armorall Leather, and a myriad of other fantastic resources available online. This is partly a tutorial, partly showing what I do and opening it up for criticism or advice. I didn't decide to start taking pictures of everything until I already had this one transferred to manilla stock. It's probably worth it's own separate topic in any case. Basically I made a center line on a piece of graph paper, drew another line a half inch off that one, and traced the knife outline. I marked a 1/8" gap along the outside of the design to allow room to fit into the welt, then drew another line 1/2" off that to allow for a full 1/2" welt. It's then folded over carefully to mark the other side then the belt loop is drawn in. Keep in mind that if you want to add a dangler loop you'll need to account for that in the size of the loop. Transfer it to some kind of heavier stock if you want to keep the pattern around, make sure you transfer the center line over also. Make sure you have a clean, uncluttered work space. Or, this, crammed into your kitchen The pattern is carefully marked out on the leather. I use 8-9oz veg tanned leather from RJF leather and I need more. Gotta start shaking my money maker on the corner or something. Mark the center line with a couple jabs from an awl. I use all of these to cut out the leather. The round knife is the best in general for me but this particular one from Tandy doesn't hold an edge worth a dang. Cut out and the center line marked. Red ink doesn't show up through any of the dyes I've used and you'll be cutting it anyways. Do not mark all the way to the edges, stay 1/2" away. Going from that pic ^ to this one is my absolute least favorite part of the process. I hit the edges lightly with a used 120 grit belt on my belt grinder then cut a line 1/2" from the outside with the adjustable stitch groover, stopping at the center line. Using this stitch groover I cut the marked center line, using a straight edge to keep the line nice and crisp. I'm just going to tool the blade portion mostly so I draw a light line where the handle is going to be and use a smooth beveling tool and maul to bevel along the interior of the line just cut. This will add depth to the tooled portion. I marked a light diagonal line and started my first line of offset marks with my basket weave tool, in this case a Craftool X510S. I flubbed one of my marks and will have to correct it as I go along. You will have to tilt the tool to get close to the edge but you don't have to try and go all the way there. Basket weave portion completed. Next I used a D436 border stamp tight up against the edge that was beveled earlier. Put a couple other lines above it just because with a veiner tool. I think that's what it is called anyways. Using the adjustable stitch groover again a line is cut for the stitching on the belt loop. Stitch holes are marked for the stitch holes with the adjustable stitch groover then deepened with an awl.