Theodore's axe facts opinions thoughts and reviews or, for the love of the axe

The title says it all. I will start with this.http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/notes-on-ax-head-geometry-part-2-of.html?m=1
I will add snippets and tidbits and some reviews. Hopefully others will add here as well. If all goes well I may even have a few "exclusive" suprises.
(This is an interesting article that touches on European axes and shortcomings. ) It also may serve to help those choosing an axe.

 

And here is a the last of the American made hardware store axes(Michigan pattern) splitting frozen oak.
I know you people get cranky without pictures

The Michigan shape developed from felling and bucking pine. Notably frozen pine. Hence the rounded and not square bit corners.
Here is an easy reading article on Michigan's axe and logging history
http://midmichigannatureandscience.blogspot.com/2013/08/logging-tools-part-1-axe-and-saw.html?m=1

 

More American axe history.
http://www.cwjefferys.ca/felling-axes
And the picture and snippet from the article,


"Local blacksmiths soon began to modify the shape of the axes sent out, and to forge axes themselves, in accordance with their own ideas and the suggestions of their pioneer customers. Hence there were many variations of shape: the drawings illustrate the general tendency of the evolution of the axe in this country. These blacksmith axes were made by folding together the tapering ends of a block of iron, heated so as to be malleable. Into these ends was inserted a strip of steel for the blade, and the whole then welded together The middle portion, thick enough to provide for the projecting poll, was fitted over a handle pattern to form an oval or egg-shaped eye. The helves were generally made of hickory, or sometimes of white oak or ash.


It is impossible to fix precise dates for these changes; but we know that in the first half of the eighteenth century the St. Maurice Forges at Three Rivers were turning out axes. By the time of the founding of Halifax, 1749, the axe of this continent had acquired its peculiar characteristics. This we may infer from a letter of Governor Cornwallis, in which he states that such slow progress had been made in tree felling by his settlers with their European axes that he had employed Massachusetts men with their American axes as being more rapid and efficient."

 

This place sells boutique axes. Restored boutique axes.
http://yellowoodesign.com/about-axes/
Definitely an interesting article worth a read. Full of usefull pictures like
And
Also, sellers of a great tee shirt






http://yellowoodesign.com/about-axes/

 

Choosing an axe. The axe has largely become a splitting tool. People who use them for bucking limbing and even felling can be found. But largely, from what I have seen, it has become a splitting tool. Even in the bushcraft and camping crowd it has become such. (As well as carving. A good carving axe with a beard will sell like hotcakes in the bushcraft community. And that seems to be the path bushcraft axes have headed.) Especially as the folding/portable saw has become so good and the use of "deadfall only" has become popular. That has been the guiding hand with cheaply made hardware store axes. Like the Michigan above, (the one I use to split oak) it looks like the axes of old, but is set up to split.
Anywho choosing an axe. Step one. Make a list. A good one.
1. How will you transport the axe?
This will help you eliminate any weight and length axe you can not transport right off the bat. Things like belt carry will narrow the options right down.
2. What is the level of experience you have with an axe?
The old hold the axe blade up arms extended in front of you. Slowly drop the axe to the ground. It should hit before it gets to the feet. With knees bent and hands kept below/parallel to the bit on the downward stroke hitting yourself is a very hard thing to do. So for example a short handled boys axe is a bad recommendation for a six foot man who is going to chop with an axe and has zero experience.EDIT (Here is a video of Rooster from axe junkies testing a Basque axe. He splits wood on a high block. Notice where the axe ends up in the block. Youch! He no doubt has all the experience needed and is confident in his work. For someone without experience this would be a nightmare setup. Not if, but when will you seriously injure yourself.)
The splitting begins around 3:50. He keeps his hands parallel to the bit when he puts some umph into it. (Good form) he uses some wrist flicks that leave his hands high an the blade in the edge of the block.(bad form/just two short a handle) you definitely want to follow through with the hands as close to even with the blade as possible on that setup!)Not the way you would teach, or want a new to axes user using one.Skill and confidence makes all the difference in what one can safely do with an axe. Again, short handled axe skilled user. I am using this as an example of a bad recommendation for a beginner.

3. What tasks do you do? What would you like to be able to do?
This is another list that will eliminate different types and patterns.


4. What axes and patterns interest you.
Self explanatory I think.
One who will use an axe only on camping trips that may share splitting duty with a junglas, or uses an axe as a novelty, will not feel the effects of a poor choice as much as someone who lugs one around the farm to pound on things, remove branches and roots, buck small falldowns across paths and split firewood.
Step 2. Find an axe lover, axe users and the like. Show them the list you have made. Take the advice from those who do the same tasks you do. Do not confuse brand loyalty or fandom with a manufacturer with a good reputation for a reliable well built and designed product. Or for that matter dont confuse price with quality. Hardware store axes are pretty crappy in general. For roughly the same price(and avalible for sale in some hardware stores) you can buy a Council tool axe. A Council tool axe is not a crappy hardware store axe. It is a working tool from a good company. In my opinion. (They also sell boutique axes) NOT all felling axes are the same. NOT all camp axes are the same. Some will make the job harder. A lot harder than it needs to be. A good axe, well designed is easier to use. It makes the work easy to do.(comparatively) Vintage axes are an option. Hanging an axe is fun for me. Restoring an axe is a great hobby. And you end up with an nice very useable axe. Sometimes better than what is avalible otherwise.

 

So this one applies to axes but knives and other things as well. I am sure I have been guilty of this as well, I find it extremely unhelpful and annoying anyway. "My axe is pretty good felling." or "This knife truncates well without damage." or "this axe is great at limbing." and "this knife is a great chopper."
Compared to what?! Into WHAT?! The same reason I hate singular videos showing an axe or knife performing a task with no comparison. Perhaps 20 chops at a pine seems like an ok number and looks good until you see another axe do it in 3. Its not rude to make the comment and show that the esee 3hm preforms a task better than the origional, it is NESSESARY for the recommendation to hold water.
I do not always agree with Woodtreekers results methods or recommendations. But I like his reviews. He always uses a comparitive tool he, and his audience is familiar with. And uses comparible tests across reviews.
" It has always worked fine for me"is almost as bad. Perhaps you have muscled through life with a $÷\#£ tool. You just dont know any better. Because you have nothing to compare it with. Anyone can say if a tool does not do the job. Anyone can say something can do the work. But "good" "well" "great" requires a comparison or you are just talking out of the bottom. This axe has always felled the 6 inch pine I like to drop great and this axe goes through 1' oaks like butter are totally different things. Without the point of reference of oak and pine, 6inch and 1foot, the statement is useless.

 

Thank you. I am tooling up to start a long term review (here)that will meld into a comparitive review between a newly manufactured axe and a historical comparitive counterpart. I just have to gather my "marbles." I keep loosing them.

 

Pioneer Axe,
Emerson Stevens factory in Oakland, Maine.

 

@Theodore what do you think of Hoffman Blacksmithing's axes? That young man is talented in my opinion but I haven't gotten my order in yet so I can't say how it feels.

 

When Gransfors Bruks wanted to make a American felling axe, they used either a Rockaway or Jersey from Maine to base it on. I think it was the rockaway. The similarities in all the axes they make are to the rockaway shape. He is using the rockaway shape as well. I have never held or used one of his axes. He certainly seems talented. The product looks nice and he knows how to display it. He also seems to have some very positive customer support and testimonials. He is offering a hand made product made here in the U.S. That something. There are easier ways to make and sell a product. So good on him. You should definitely do a review. If you own or can borrow the equivalent Gransfors Bruks that would be a great comparison.

 

I can't say that I know enough about the ins and outs of axes to do an in-depth review. I will be able to say if it does it's job well or doesn't. The only other axe I have is my Velvicut Hudson Bay since I gave my buddy the big Jersey that was in the garage.

 

It will still be cool to see it in its natural environment. What head weight and handle length did you get? While he is shooting at GB in my opinion, the HudsonBay pattern would make good comparison if they are close.

 

On the subject of the axe sent to Gransfors Bruks. It may have been a Jersey (Baltimore Kentucky possibly?) according to this picture, and article. Perhaps.......They ended with a rockaway anyway.

http://blog.jackmtn.com/maine-axes/

The top axe


From the article by Tim Smith,
"The top one is one that I managed to find a few years ago; an original Emerson and Stevens, made in Oakland, Maine. This is the axe head that Geoff Burke sent to Sweden when Gransfors Bruks needed a template of a good American felling axe. They based their design on it."

 

I got a 3lb head and 28" handle. The VHB is something like a 1.5-1.75 and 24" I believe.

 

Supposed to be 2#. Not a good comparison.
3lbs on a 28 inch handle should be nice. A lot of people who worked with an axe preferred shorter handles. And heads that were usable over a day, not over an hour. For an all around axe that does not sound bad. Compromises have to be made somewhere. I hope it works well for you, they certainly look good.

 

Just to be clear I do not agree with everything or sometimes any of the opinions in the things I link. But some fact, or opinion I feel can blah, blah, whatever.
You know, take what works toss the rest.

Now, about working axes and shorter handles(and some other good stuff, (I like handles on the longer side for what it is worth)

http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/in-search-of-axe-for-world-made-by-hand.html?m=1
From the article by Peter Vido,
"When I questioned local old timers on the weight of their everyday working axes, their answers varied all the way from 2½ pounds to 4 pounds, but their handles were within a much narrower range –- 30” to 32”. Perhaps the rare extra-tall man used a longer handle, but among the local leftovers of the past such handles are practically non-existent. (The trees here in the East are nothing like the giants of the West Coast, although 50-100 years ago they were not matchsticks, either.)"

 

The lugs? I think you will get a lot of different answers. Increased surface area in contact with the handle. That is the most common answer. I personally think it is just cosmetic. A selling point. It makes it a pain to hang them.