Rust under handles - Uncoated and Camp Lore

Discussion in 'ESEE® Knives and Gear' started by NT Tristan, Jul 27, 2018.

  1. NT Tristan

    NT Tristan Member

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    Hey all. Anyone noticed rust under the scales of your stripped/uncoated knives?

    I had an old RC-4 I stripped then bolted some canvas scales back onto it. Took the scales off maybe 6-12 months later and it looked nasty under there! I took a photo at the time but can't find it.

    I know 1095 rusts yada yada yada. I also have no doubt the knife would have lasted and performed well for many years even despite this.

    However I was wondering as to others' experience. Do you have the same thing happen or maybe it was just me? Maybe the finish of the steel combined with how the scales were bolted on, but i thought they were on pretty tight.

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2018
  2. Twiztedthoughtz

    Twiztedthoughtz Member

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    The only problem I’ve seen with micarta is it absorbs oils sweat and blood which is why I prefer G10. A light coat of oil under the scales would probably prevent this from happening to you again. I coat mine under the scales even when they aren’t stripped because I have noticed on some of my ESEE’s while installing my tkc G10 scales some of the holes for the handle hardware in the tang have either thin or missing coating. I’m sure it is difficult to get the coating in those areas during the coating process. I had a stripped ESEE 5 with tkc scales and I coated it with mineral oil even though it had a patina under them and had no corrosion issues. Hope this helps.
     
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  3. Reno Lewis

    Reno Lewis Knot-A-Challenge Champion

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    Rust under the handle of almost any knife can be an issue. Especially if your blades are being regularly soaked.

    Even with knives that have permanently attached scales, using corby bolts (or other hardware) and epoxy. The epoxy bond only lasts for so long with heavy use, and I've had my fair share of blades that have had the epoxy bond fail after 4-5 years of use. This is just my experience though.

    It's just one of those things. You'll never get a fit between handle scales and the tang tight enough to prevent moisture from getting in there. And once it's there, it doesn't exactly evaporate easily. Removable scales at least let you do something to maintain it with ease. Same cant be said for a bolted and epoxied handle.

    I've done a bunch of various things to prevent rust under the scales of my stripped/uncoated ESEE's, including oils, with no success. It just doesn't last through repeated soakings (PNW rains...). Currently testing a pure beeswax seal on my stripped 6HM.

    A couple other options would be a clear spray polyurethane, or clear nail polish on the tang. It would provide a solid water barrier, it's cheap and easy, and should last a fairly long time, and would be easy to touch up/replace when needed.

    Just something to think about.

    I'm loving my stainless 4 so far. ;)
     
  4. FortyTwoBlades

    FortyTwoBlades Moderator Staff Member

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    A bit of clear spray lacquer over the tang would fix that right up.
     
  5. BlueDogScout

    BlueDogScout Member

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    Great advice
     
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  6. RocketmanDane

    RocketmanDane Member

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    ... new ideas loading :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  7. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    I may be a minority here but i dont worry about it at all under the scales, in the scale bolts and on the blade. Pretty much only concern myself with the edge. That said i still take precautions like mineral oil or bfat. Ive noticed it tends to rust in the above areas more often though likely an airflow issue.
     
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  8. BlueDogScout

    BlueDogScout Member

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    I’ve switched over to the bday because I’ll use mine for food prep. @RedEyedHog posted a photo on social media using bfat vs not on some knives and the results are clear...
     
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  9. james gormley

    james gormley Member

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    • I use bfat on all my blades and sheaths.
     
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  10. Expat

    Expat Expat™ Knives Staff Member

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    I will pull the scales off of my cleaver and see what it looks like underneath. It is constantly submerged in water in the sink. I wipe it with a paper towel and that's it. I use it so often, there's no need to put anything on the edge, but I will take a gander under the scales and see what appears.
     
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  11. koolaidnd

    koolaidnd Member

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    I’d say it’s an issue but I don’t care. They get used. The Cr 2.5 was given to me in January. The JG3 is about a year old.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2018
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  12. Bushcraft_Dave

    Bushcraft_Dave Member

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    I spray polyurethane under the scales
     
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  13. Clown

    Clown Member

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    Looks like a warranty claim...
     
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  14. koolaidnd

    koolaidnd Member

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    No way. No way am I calling Mike for that.
     
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  15. NT Tristan

    NT Tristan Member

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    "The customer is always right" - Mike Perrin
     
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  16. BlueDogScout

    BlueDogScout Member

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    Something something dark side, something something do it
     
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  17. Reno Lewis

    Reno Lewis Knot-A-Challenge Champion

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    I just finished applying some of my favorite spray urethane to one side of my stripped 6HM tang.

    Going back out in about 10 min to do the other side, and then clamp it in the vice overnight to cure. Will advise how it goes.
     
  18. Getnlwr

    Getnlwr Member

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    I have some very sticky sealant tape that I put down on the handle sides then take a razor and cut the edges. You can't tell it's there and have had zero rise under the handles of my 4uc, cr2.5 and that war club that expat gives out in trade for fuzzy stickers.
     
  19. Expat

    Expat Expat™ Knives Staff Member

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    2E98A712-1336-452D-9BE7-7B6A2845A479.jpeg I pulled the scales on my cleaver. It’s been used constantly for over a year. It’s been in the rain and is wet daily in the sink.

    I have never applied any of your witchcraft products on it. Here’s a pic. To me there is virtually no rust but some of you may feel different.
     
  20. BlueDogScout

    BlueDogScout Member

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    Looks terrible! You need to get rid of that thing and use a new one. I can “dispose” of it if you would like... ;)
     

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