Photos: Feathersticks

Discussion in 'Survival and Wilderness Skills' started by The Warrior, Sep 13, 2016.

  1. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    F8FEDBFB-C2CE-473C-9901-1A47A89DEBD2.jpeg

    It took the esee ferro rod and the pr4 to get the fire.
     
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  2. bearthedog

    bearthedog Member

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    I didn't wish to offend. Whatever works...WORKS! I was saying that if you are having trouble or knocking them off the stick, try without the thumb.

    -RB

    Oak is hard for a lot of people. The grain on red oak and a lot of the oaks in California (live oak, canyon oak, black oak) are a nightmare. Southern Red oak, white oak and scarlet oak to me have a softer grain, for hardwood. Somewhat straight. It takes thinner curls and a lot more finesse to make fuzzies from oak that a ferrocerium rod will work on, but not too much more.

    Use pine, poplar, hemlock, willow, witch-hazel and maple for getting tinder and making kindling to get the fire going.

    You nailed it Frank!

    -RB
     
  3. The Marsh Gorilla

    The Marsh Gorilla Member

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    Ruben I wasn't offended in the least!!! I truly value your opinion any any pointers you can give. I didn't even know what a feather stick was until I joined the old forum in 2014, just wasn't a skill they taught us in Boy Scouts or anything I was involved in. I had been wondering why my feathers were fairly thick and didn't ignite easily from a ferro rod. I had been thinking it was because I keep using some pretty dank fatwood. I ended up starting to scrap fuzz from fatwood with the 90* spine I put on my 5.

    Thanks again and sorry if I came across offended. Hard to judge someone's inflection on the Internet.

    JMJ
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018
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  4. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    There is a feather sticks and knives video ESEE put out recently in the video section that shows @bearthedog at work.
     
  5. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    Why do certain edges do better at feather sticks? Or am i not using the edge properly to make a feather? Im betting on the latter but figured id ask.

    Ive got a convexed edge PR4 that will cut a tree down its so sharp but for some reason it wants to cut through the stick instead of feather. It has to be my control right?
     
  6. STPNWLF

    STPNWLF Member

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    Your not holding your mouth right:confused:
     
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  7. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    I cant even chew gum while carving so its possible.
     
  8. STPNWLF

    STPNWLF Member

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    LMAO
     
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  9. STPNWLF

    STPNWLF Member

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    All things are factors
    The wood, the knife/axe/tool, and technique.
    Practice practice practice:p
     
  10. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    Same thing happens to me with a scandi grind blade too. It wants to drive deeper into the wood and i cant control that well.
     
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  11. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    Makes sense.
     
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  12. STPNWLF

    STPNWLF Member

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    Practice practice practice
     
  13. Mudman

    Mudman Member

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    I've learned to use as little weight as possible. Initially I struggled with all edge types, now I can about any. Although I'm not at RB's level yet. Maybe in 20 more years.
     
  14. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    I was experimenting with angles and pressure last night. Thats gold right there.
     
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  15. Mudman

    Mudman Member

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    yeah, pressure took me the longest to get a grasp of. Hard to get rid of the kung fu grip. Once you master the light pressure, you can actually start lighting green wood, I've done it on several occasions, however just the fuzz will burn, not the rest of the stick.
     
  16. Mudman

    Mudman Member

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    This was green wood, but can't remember what type.
     

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  17. Strigidae

    Strigidae Administrator Staff Member

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    Must dry fast if its that thin huh?
     
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  18. Mudman

    Mudman Member

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    yes, I believe that's the idea. But it's still pretty damp initially, maybe if you let it sit for a few hours it'd be dry. I'd say feathers are about the only thing I'm confident with, everything else is questionable haha.

    Give it a try!
     
  19. bearthedog

    bearthedog Member

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    100% buddy!

    -RB
    Lies!

    It really is part of the control aspect. Light pressure, more is spent keeping the knife against the wood. I feel like with a Scandi I have a huge advantage over a flat grind only when blades are starting to dull. The edge geometry is always going to work for you over other grinds. All part of my theory that no matter what the order of priorities are for anyone in any given environment, fire is #1 for me! Being able to get thin shavings lit with a ferro rod, match or catching a spark in char cloth and blowing it to life in a thin, fuzzy nest is super important to me. Heat is so important in a survival experience and camping in your backyard all the same!

    Sorry, knife, fire rant again!

    -RB
     
  20. bearthedog

    bearthedog Member

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    same as in green bamboo. I'd make a handful of shavings and by the time I get my fire steel out, it is ready to take a spark!

    -RB
     

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