Nahmakanta (mid-Maine near Katahdin)

This is a pictorial story about Nahmakanta. If you get bored with the words at the beginning, skip them, look at the images in the next few posts (annotated with captions), then come back to the intro for the context, including adjacent wild lands, routes, and some geologic history that ties this land to Scotland (and other places).

Nahmakanta. Where is it?

Get to Bangor, Maine, then go NW about an hour (as the crow flies) to Rt 11 north out of Milo. A bit more than half way to Millinocket, hang a left onto the Jo Mary Road, a relatively good gravel road (but with a lot of washboards). Drive about 20 mi, almost to its end, near where it crosses the AT for the second time (of three). You'll pay $9 going in at a manned check point (only open until 9 pm), then again coming out. Camping in Nahmakanta is free (though not at private campgrounds in the area and most other parks like Baxter).

About 10 miles in you'll enter Nahmakanta, a Maine State Public Reserve Land (part of a system that seems unique to Maine), a 43,000 acre multiple use area: hiking, camping, fishing, hunting, ATV/snowsled and some logging, mostly to create wildlife habitat for max diversity.

The entire northeastern 2/5 or so is designated wilderness = no logging. It abuts the Debsconaeg Lakes Wilderness to its north which abuts the 209,500 acres Baxter State Park to its north (actually a private park established by a governor in the early 20th century) where Mt Katahdin sits. As the saying goes in Maine, there's nothing north of Baxter until you hit Quebec but trees, deer, bear, racoons, skunk, weasel, beaver, moose, mosquitoes, and black flies; very, very few humans, and most are ... shall we say, a little titled.

The upper (northern-most) 100 miles of the AT run through all this on the way to peaking out at Katahdin; it's all part of the 100-mile Wilderness. This is not merely spectacular, but the wildest country on the US east coast. In fact, it's some of the wildest, most rugged landscapes and ecosystems I've seen in six decades of travel and backpacking in the US, including the big dramatic western lands (Rockies, Cascades) in CO, UT, ID, WA, etc.

From near the end of the road, you'll have to pay me extra for directions to my secret camp , but it's only a mile from there at the north end of a sizable "pond" -- actually a wide spot in a drainage that's sometimes a stream and sometimes a lake or pond, with moose-occupied wetlands along the way.

Out of the north end flows a stream that goes down though a set of "falls" (in spring during snowmelt) or cascades (by late summer) into a gorge (Pollywog) with 160' vertical granite walls -- from the AT straight down. (The granite bedrock in this area is part of one large dome -- that includes Katahdin -- covering hundreds of square miles. Soil is only inches thick on the dome, and consists mostly of dead organic material covered with mosses, shot through with fungi. Trees are rooted precariously into it, usually with the help of anchoring rocks around which they wrap their roots.)

Here are a few images. I'm doing a photography and videography expose' of the area during the course of a year until I leave for Scotland. In fact, this project is a prototype for one I want to do in the Scottish Highlands, but with a team of videographers and scientists.

As an important side note, Nahmakanta is a small part of the extensive Maine Highlands (most of the NW 2/5 of the state sharing border with NH and Quebec), even if with radically different ecosystems, they are geologically related via Pangaea. Part of what are now called the Appalachians are found also in Scotland (and another part in Morocco, specifically the Atlas Mts, IIRC).

Thus, the new (still being developed) International Appalachian Trail (IAT) starts where the AT ends -- on Katahdin -- routes east into new (less than one year) 87,000 acre Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument (years away from good roads and hiking trails, but boaters, heads up: serious white water there), then up NE through Maine, into Quebec, Newfoundland, over to Greenland <insert boats here> over to Scotland, then Ireland. I want to walk on it there with tales and videos of it over here.

Map from a state atlas. (I now have a MUCH better one focusing only on Nahmakanta.) Red dotted line is the last few miles of the AT.



The road in. No, that is not Katahdin, which cannot be seen from anywhere on the road. Its view is blocked by a long ridge to the north. But the views of it from the AT are spectacular, I'm told.



A stream from a bridge just inside Nahmakanta, a mere hint of what is to come.



North end of the pond, near the parking area with primitive camping, but no fires there. (Only in designated campsites with a built in fire grate.)



Walk down the trail from the parking area/public camp (but not mine, which is on the ledges above it) toward upper falls. Here are three of upper falls, starting with where the stream flows out of the pond ...





... and then below upper falls, flowing on down to lower falls (next post). The sugar maples were on fire with color then.



Continued ...

 

<Continued>

From upper falls, walk on downstream on the trail to lower falls/cascade.
This is the upper half of a complex set of ledges and walls.



After the lower falls, backtrack slightly to catch the side trail up to the AT. About a mile later, you'll arrive at this pond ON the AT. This is the kind of place you're most likely to see a moose.



Now, back to near upper falls, between them and the parking area. Hang a right and navigate uphill through a maze of vertical granite walls from 3' to 60'. On top of each is a wide ledge, at the back of which is the next wall, etc, etc, etc, up, up, up.

The ledges offer hammock camping spots. Yes, hammock. Good luck finding a place within a mile that's level and smooth enough for a tent. I'm an experienced tenter -- with mountaineering tents -- and I can tell you, it ain't gonna happen.

This wall/ledge is just below camp 2 (see below). My walking stick for scale: 53". Cleavage planes in the granite ensure very flat faces when flakes break off. (I understand better now why granite quarries so easily.)



Here's camp 1, where I'll stay for 7 days next week (if I can sell that scope).

Let's see you setup a tent there.

I didn't have my under quilt yet, so this system is a jury-rigged UQ made of a Kifaru Woobie supporting an old down sleeping bag, zipped open. It worked -- kept me warm on a 40's F night -- but a PITA to set up. My new UQ that I have now will be warmer and an order of magnitude easier to set up. (I'm practicing with the whole system at home; last weekend, I built a free-standing frame for it in my bedroom -- pics of it another day.)

In this image, the tarp is folded back on a brilliant-blue sunny day in the 60's F. I like to hang my rain poncho (a great piece of kit from Mil Spec for $30; see Amazon) over my ridge line near the foot end for a little extra protection from rain, and a few extra degrees of warmth.



The trees -- including huge pines and hemlocks -- cling to the rock for dear life. I call this one Stone Pine. It's massive roots the size of small culverts wrap around 4 sides of the rock.



The entire area is a carpet of mosses -- including sphagnum -- 2" to 5" thick under which is solid granite. Good luck getting stakes in the ground. (They have to go in at a very shallow angle, nearly horizontal.)

Walking there is literally like walking on a soft pile carpet. It's great getting out of the hammock for those late night entropy breaks and stepping onto a soft carpet.



Macro of Sphagnum. (Camera: Canon SX530 HD. I also carry a backup Sony Cybershot that's 12 years old, and a hand-me-down years ago from a forum member.) As a biologist, I've decided to start a formal study of mosses and their relatives, collectively called bryophytes, and lichens (which are not plants at all but symbiotic beings resulting from symbiosis between fungi and algae (or photosynthetic bacteria).

I recently purchased a fine field guide for the bryophytes. Amazing plants, evolved 400 million years ago as the first land plants. Their biology and reproduction are radically different from other plants (ferns are more similar, but still different).



Some of the MANY species of mushrooms in the area. Fungus city, it is.



These are growing out through a hole in a rotting, standing white (aka silver) birch.



This is the view of the pond a few hundred vertical feet below camp 2. The tallest wall in the immediate area -- ~50' -- is just below it. (Watch that first step.)

I have not yet hung there, but will next trip. I've already got the support trees picked out. Room with a view. My current avatar is a small, cropped version of this one.



That's all for now. I have to go to work on making a living once I return from Nahmakanta. It's a project that's closely related to this one, but more science-oriented.

More images another day downstream, and even more after I return. I'll produce a video then of both trips, and more next spring. I hope some of you can join me there then, before I head across the bigger (Atlantic) pond to the east in late summer or early autumn.

If I'm lucky, I'll find someone to take me in during winter the only way it'll be accessible then: on snowmobiles.

 

Ok, one more. I'd be remiss in not posting this one, eh @Bushman5?

Here's my day/overnight survival pack, the one I'd have with me if the world ends tomorrow:
an Eberlestock Halftrack, best 35 L pack on Earth, IMO.

This is at lower falls during a snack and wading break.



I carry most other gear -- hammock, extra tarp, insulation (top and under-quilts), a week's clothing, and some other items -- in to basecamp using a 75 L Gregory Atlas, my favorite ever expedition pack. It's over 20 years old, been carried all over the west, and is still good as new. I'll get some shots of it next trip.

 

Great photos gonna put that on my list of places to hike/camp

 

It's acknowledged as one of the crown jewels of the Maine backcountry, but a well-kept secret among locals. It's hard and long to get into compared with some of the other tourist spots, and far less known.

As a result, even on a spectacular warm autumn week **, there were very few people around.

** Temps in the 70's F day, mostly high 40's and 50's night, blue skies except for one day when the remains of hurricane Juan obscured the top of Katahdin (not visible from my camp, but visible from further up the AT; I'll get pics next trip).

By the way, one of the true joys of hammock camping is the view when lying in it, at night of stars and moon, in the day -- especially morning -- the blue through the trees.

Example.

 

Very very cool trip Stone

 

From my OP:

Here it is. I left it HD so hopefully, any who are interested can get to its zooming depth. @junglebum, this may be of help in planning your trip.

{ETA: even though I uploaded an HD image, I can't make it display as hi def. Must be a server side setting, or perhaps an auto-compression to save hard drive space (understandable). I'll try to find a place online where I can post it, then post a link here to the HD image.}

Hiking trails are green dashed lines; no ATV's/snowmobiles on those (but they have their own trails: black dash dot). The AT is green dashed, also, but the dashes are MUCH larger. It runs along the southern shore of Nahmakanta Lake before turning north, then east through Debsconaeg Lakes Wilderness, then north again into Baxter.

This map is available free from the Jo Mary check point (where you pay the road toll). I got two. One got cut down (to the area that's the focus of my project) and laminated for a camp/trail map. On the back is a lot of useful info re history, management strategies, ecology, geology, etc.



Also, for any who are following this, who read the OP before 5 pm, Oct 13, it's changed.

Other than editing for typos and clarifications, here are the main additions. I'm working on this as if it may become part of the script for the video.

As an important side note, Nahmakanta is a small part of the extensive Maine Highlands (most of the NW 2/5 of the state sharing borders with NH and Quebec). Even though they have radically different ecosystems, they are geologically related via Pangaea. Part of what are now called the Appalachians are found also in Scotland (and another part in Morocco, specifically the Atlas Mts, IIRC).

Thus, the new (still being developed) International Appalachian Trail (IAT) starts where the AT ends -- on Katahdin -- routes east into the new (only one year old) 87,000 acre Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument (years away from good roads and hiking trails, but boaters, heads up: serious white water there), then NE up through Maine into Quebec, Newfoundland, then <insert boats here> over to Greenland, Scotland and Ireland. I want to walk on it there with tales and videos of it over here.​

 

Very nice trip Stone.Thanks for taking us along.

 

Beautiful.

 

Thanks for all the kind complements. I'll post more images soon.

Sold my scope to another forum member today, so my next trip to Nahmakanta is in the works. Probably leave Tuesday or Wednesday of next week (Oct 17 or 18). Planning 6 - 8 days, depending on weather -- projections are for unseasonably warm and dry -- and transportation issues. (I have no motorized vehicle, so depend on friends to get there and back.)

Working on a DIY hammock pillow, cut down from a $6 dollar store polyester fill, stitched up by a neighbor.

 

Best hammock pillows are free, anytime you take an airplane Grab one

 

<smiles> Flew on my last commercial flight in Feb, 2016,
when returning to Maine from a month's long stay in FL (never again).
{I'll take a ship to the UK.}

This DIY is a good one. I'll sleep well tonight .. and soon.

 

Absolutely stunning myfriend. That is one of those places that just begs you to strap up the pack, walk off the track, and breathe the awesomeness in.

 

Nice trip report,looks like a great natural area to explore,thanks and good job.Stay safe Stone.

 

Finally pinned down the departure day for the next trip to Nahmakanta: leaving Friday morning. Will be gone for 6 - 8 days, depending on when my friend can come pick me up. One friend will take me up there and stay a few days on her own; another will come to get me, but his schedule is still uncertain, and I won't know until he gets there, adding to the adventure. I'll take ten days of food just to make sure.

I think I'll post a few more pics tonight instead of working. Work can be such a drag ...

 

Three hours after dark. I'm trying to sleep now from dark to sunrise, so only a couple of minutes left before sleep.

Here are a few pics. More before I leave to take some more.

An amphibian on the trail. He said his name was Harvey.



A wetland at the intersection with the AT,
just a few miles before its northern terminus.



My 180 Flame cooking dinner with twigs.
I peeled back the moss mat to expose the rock.
The next morning, I put the mat back onto the rock to conceal the ashes.



My feet in the stream flowing out of the pond just above the upper falls.
Different shutter speeds. The first captured the texture, the second the speed.





Ferns on the top of a very large stone.



More fungi. I tell you, they are taking over Earth.
Mosses on the ground are genus Takakia.



Hammock from the back side, tarp hunkered down.



Some lichens along the trail where nothing can grow on the granite dome but lichens.

 

Beautiful coverage,looking forward to more,good luck on Fri.

 

My current sig line offers an update to this thread.

10.29.17 : Returned on 27th from 7-days at hammock camp in Nahmakanta. First four days were warm and clear; the next 3 yielded 5" of rain (with heavy winds), 1" more than the average for October. -- Report to come ...​

I took yesterday to unpack and clean up, wash, dry out, eat.

Today was spent resting, eating more (as I'll explain why, I returned with a calorie deficit), doing research on new gear to purchase over the next few months based on my experience up there.

I've got some pressing professional issues to attend the next few days -- I sacrificed earning potential for one last camp before snow flies -- but I will file a full report.

For now, here's a couple of pics of my final (of 3) hangs in basically the same "spot"; this was the best and saved my ass during two horrific rain storms (from behind the tarp; see second image) with high winds coming off a long fetch on the lake below.

The tarp -- a Warbonnet Mambajamba (to be replaced next year by their Superfly = same tarp with integrated doors) -- and UQ (Go! Outfitters Adventure quilt) worked spectacularly. The top quilt was good with the help of my Kifaru Woobie -- helped keep the down TQ dry in all that rain, added a bit of insulation.

I'm still happy enough with the Blackbird, but am about to purchase one of its replacements. Story another day ...

My Halftrack day pack sits in the foreground (usually hung on a tree); my Gregory expedition pack that hauled in the hammock and insulation on a second trip is on a tree on the right. Someday, especially as I get older, I'm going to hire sherpas.

 

OK, one more, just to satisfy the "where TF are the scenic pictures?" crowd.

This is on the AT ~ 1 mi NE of my camp. That's Nahmakanta Lake, the largest in the area (but small by comparison to other lakes in the region; it's about 5X longer than wide, and this shot is across its width).

The blue arrow points across the Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness (on the other side of that ridge) toward the southern slope of Mt Katahdin about 12 mi north, just beginning to peek out from the clouds of a pineapple express, a gift from the Gulf of Mexico that pummeled me for a few days. But the experience added a ton of confidence in my ability to endure bad weather and confidence in my gear.